The VW Bug

VW Generator Rebuild part 1

2012-01-26T16:26:00.000-05:00

This is the dis-assembly of a 1960's era generator. I first planned on rebuilding this unit to save some cost on an expensive replacement. However I can not find all the parts I think I am going to need. This unit sat for about 10 years in a car, the inside was covered in cobwebs, figured it was safer to clean it up before trying to use it.

First the casing. The strap around the terminals has already been removed in this picture. also note that the woodruff keys on both shafts have also been removed.

Next is the pulley side of the generator

The two screws run the length of the generator, so the nuts on the rear need to be removed first.

Once removed you can pry/tap the front cover and internal magneto out.

A woodruff key will fall out.

With a screw driver I was able to remove the other cover once the terminals were removed.

Before the wire brush

After a wire brush

There are 2 screws on the outside of the case that remove the 2 wire "packs", but I was unable to get either screw to break.

I am unsure how the coverings affect the generator, nor am I able to source new ones. I have found replacement bearings, brushes and pulleys. I did find this site to source a reasonably priced ($50) refurbished unit. Most VW sites want over $100 for a refurb unit. I will probably just replace this for now, and later upgrade to the alternator once funds allow.

If you come across this post feel free to leave a comment if you know of a site to source spare parts for these generators.

If I find the parts, I will post a part 2 on the re-assemble. (I wouldn't hold my breath at this point.)

Broken Exhaust stud removal

2012-01-07T19:48:00.000-05:00

After finding out I ordered the wrong crank bearings (bought standard, need .020 over ID). I decided I should probably get the head back together. It started with removing the two broken exhaust studs.

I apparently didnt take a before pic. So this is the second one I drilled and tapped.

Ran a small drill thru the center, the stud hole goes completely thru the head.

The drill set in my tap and die kit. Started with the 1/8" drill, then worked up to 15/64". Broke one of the bits on the second stud. opps.

Here is the final drill out

Start of the tap, I find I run it 2-3 turns and back it out and clean the tap, and repeat until I run it completely through the hole.

Voila, two new studs and copper nuts. I found the copper nuts didn't easily thread down the studs, so I ran the tap through them. It looks like these are copper coated and the coating was a tad thick on the top end for it to thread. Now they run easy, I just hope that they don't seize like the old ones did.

The other side I managed not to break, so I ran the die over them to clean up the threads.

Will have to wait on the new bearings before the engine case can go back together, in the mean time the other head has 3 broken studs that need attention.

Bearing sizes

2012-01-07T19:11:00.000-05:00

Line Bore	Thrust???????	Crank

Std - 65mm	Std - 22mm	Std - 55mm
1st - 65.5mm	1st - 21mm	1st undersize - .25mm
2nd - 66mm	2nd - 20mm	2nd undersize - .50mm
3rd - 66.5mm		3rd undersize - .75mm
4th - 67mm		4th undersize - 1.00mm (54mm)

Crankshaft Converted To Inches

Mains	Rods	Conversion MM To Inches

Std - 2.1641 - 2.1649	Std - 2.1646 - 2.1654	.25mm = .010"
1st - 2.1541 - 2.1549	1st - 2.1546 - 2.1554	.50mm = .020"
2nd - 2.1441 - 2.1449	2nd - 2.1446 - 2.1454	.75mm = .030"
3rd - 2.1341 - 2.1349	3rd - 2.1346 - 2.1354	1.00mm = 040"
4th - 2.1241 - 2.1249	4th - 2.1246 - 2.1254

Courtesy of lazy8parts.com....with the additions of the mm size

1200cc-1600cc Crankshaft &; Bearing Information (May 1960 On)

Std. Rod Journal = 2.164" (54.9656mm)

The Crankshaft Main Bearing Journal closest to the Flywheel is Journal # 1 and is the Thrust Bearing.
Std. Main Journals # 1, # 2, # 3 = 2.164" (55.0mm)
Std. Main Journal # 4 = 1.574" (39.9796mm?)

Journal Bearings # 1 &; 4 are one piece and install on the Crankshaft
Journal Bearings # 2 &; 3 are two piece and install in the case halves

To determine if a 1200cc/1600cc case has been align bored, measure the outside diameter of the rear main bearing shell:

If the case is Std. The dia = 2.559" (65.0 mm)
If the case has been bored + .020" The dia = 2.579" (65.5 mm)
If the case has been bored + .040" The dia = 2.599" (66.0 mm)
If the case has been bored + .060" The dia = 2.619" (66.5 mm)
If the case has been bored + .080" The dia = 2.639" (67.0 mm)

If you don’t have the one piece Rear Main Bearing Shell, you can measure the thickness of one of the # 2 or # 3 Main bearing Halves. (To use this method, you have to know if the Crankshaft the bearing came from is: Std., .010", .020", etc.; adjust the following dimensions accordingly).

If the Crankshaft is Std. The thickness of the # 2 or # 3 Bearing shell Half in a Standard Case = .2065"
If the case has been bored + .020" The Shell measures .2075" (5.2705 mm)
If the case has been bored + .040" The Shell measures .2085" (5.2959 mm)

If the case has been bored + .060" The Shell measures .2095" (5.3213 mm)
If the case has been bored + .080" The Shell measures .2105" (5.3467 mm)

To determine if a 1200cc/1600cc case thrust has been cut, measure the width of the Case Rear Main Bearing Saddle:

If the Thrust Bearing is Std. The Width = 0.8655" (21.9837 mm)
If the Thrust Bearing is - .040" The Width = 0.8255" (20.9677 mm)
If the Thrust Bearing is - .080" The Width = 0.7855" (19.9517 mm)

If you are trying to determine what oversize bearings to get for a crankshaft and don't have immediate access to the case, but have the old crankshaft complete with bearings, you can easily determine if a 1200cc/1600cc case thrust has been cut, by measuring the Thicknessof the "Outer" Rear Main Bearing Thrust Flange:

If the thrust is Std.
The Outer Rear Thrust Flange thickness is 0.0965" (2.4511 mm)
If the thrust has been cut to -.040"
The Outer Rear Thrust Flange thickness is 0.1365" (3.4671 mm)
If the thrust has been cut to -.080"
The Outer Rear Thrust Flange thickness is 0.1765" (4.4831 mm)

Torque specs

2012-01-06T17:22:00.000-05:00

Courtesy of lazy8parts.com

Various Air Cooled TIGHTENING TORQUES
	foot-pounds	mkg
Connecting rod bolts	22-25	3-3.5
Crankcase halves (6 studs)	25*	3.5
(large nuts)	30**
if 10MM Studs	18**
if 8MM Studs
Crankcase halves (4 studs)	14	2
(small nuts)	14	2
Crankshaft pulley	29-36	4 to 5
Cylinder head nuts	23	3.2
Engine mounting bolts	22	3
Flywheel gland nut	217	30
Except 1600 engine	253
1600 engine
Generator/Alternator pulley	40-47	5.5-6.5
Oil drain plug	25	3.5
Oil pump cover nuts	14	2
Oil strainer nuts	5	0.7
Pressure plate bolts	18	2.5
Rear Axle Nut	253	35
Type 1	253	35
Rocker shaft nuts	14-18	2-2.5
Spark plugs	22-29	3 to 4
Torque converter to drive plate	18	2.5
* Original Volkswagen Specifications
** Used by most engine re-builders today

Holiday post

2011-12-25T16:39:00.002-05:00

Even the bug was good enough to get a few new parts.

New 2.5 in drop spindles
rear main seal
cap and rotor
condenser
points
plugs
distro drive gear
generator brushes
rocker stud bushings

Add them to the pile of parts I have lined up, just need more time.

multi day post

2011-11-26T08:59:00.000-05:00

Posting this rather late, but some work was done on the engine case. Gunked the case and pulled the distro gear and timing gear from the crank. Unfortunately I bent a tooth on the distro gear and all worked stopped until I could order a new one. That should be arriving next week. Then I can work on reassembly of the short block, and start work on refinishing the tins and fan shroud.

On a side note I traded the Saturn in on a 2006 Volvo S60R.

Follow up

2011-10-31T21:01:00.001-04:00

Follow up on the dawn dish soap soaking. Short of it, not worth it, had to scrub it with the wire brush anyways.

And more pictures of the future owner in her mommy made Halloween costume.

quick update

2011-10-26T13:36:00.001-04:00

Bought a valve spring compressor, pulled the valves out of one head and placed it in a tub to soak over the weekend. The valves are full of crud, will have to see if some brake cleaner will remove it.

The engine rebuild book calls for phosphate soap (dishwasher detergent) but the boat was written in 1987 and all companies now only make phosphate free soaps, so dawn dish soap it is. It takes grease off my hands fairly well. Worse case I am back where I started. Will update on in a couple days on how well it worked.

Crankshaft

2011-10-22T20:16:00.001-04:00

Took some measurements on the crank

	Spec	Limit	Measured	Taper	Notes
Rod Side Clearance	.004 - .016	0.027	.011 - .014
Flywheel Oil Shoulder dia	69.9 - 70.1	69.4	70
Rod Journal #1	54.97 - 54.99	0.03	54.2	0	Crankshaft
Rod Journal #2	54.97 - 54.99	0.03	54.3	0	dowel to timing
Rod Journal #3	54.97 - 54.99	0.03	54.3	0	Limit - out of round
Rod Journal #4	39.98 - 40.00	0.03	39.2	0
Rod Bearing Journal (268)	?	?	54.4		Rod
Rod Bearing Journal (212)	?	?	54.4		dowel to timing
Rod Bearing Journal (207)	?	?	54.3
Rod Bearing Journal (259)	?	?	54.4

The bearings show being .010 over. The woodruff key is currently stuck, so the splash guard, front bearing, Distro gear, timing gear, and main bearing will be staying put. This table will be updated as I find more info and order a more accurate micrometer.

Carb rebuild

2011-10-15T23:03:00.001-04:00

Rebuilt my one of my solex h40/44 today.

Still have another to go.

I see the rust at the end of the tunnel

2011-10-08T18:32:00.001-04:00

Finished the outside of the passenger front wheel well.

Just have the inside piece and a small hole in the b pillar and my rust repair is done for this round. Then its off to brakes, engine, and interior.

Turning Day

2011-09-20T17:30:00.001-04:00

Bolted on the tires, threw on the fenders and rolled her out for her one day of the year in the sun.

The front is dropped as low as it will go with the beam adjusters. Will have to look at the cost of a set of drop spindles for drums, until I can get the disc brake kit I want. The rears will probably be re-adjusted up some, it currently sits on the bump stop, and possibly notch the spring plates.

Next were a few picks with the fam. The first is its future driver, just have to wait until 2027.

Here’s the wife steering the bug while it is pushed out. I say steering loosely because the toe is no where close to be set correct.

One new part installed today, replaced the driver side shock.

I have the other I just put the fender on before I remembered to do it, next time. Katie lucked out because as we were ready to push the bug back in the garage an ADT guy walked by and asked if I needed help, so he helped.

Brazilian Junk day 2

2011-09-13T20:19:00.001-04:00

Got some work done today.

Then I ran out of gas before I could weld on the rear body mount. Will have to wait a couple weeks to get back to it, and I have lost the fender bolts, hopefully I can locate them.

also hung the door, it needs some fitment still. Once the mount is complete, I will bolt on the fenders on and roll it out of the garage for its one day a year day light trip. I really just need to turn it around to work on the passenger side.

More Brazilian junk

2011-08-30T20:34:00.001-04:00

The rear body mount patch panel was nowhere near being close to the layout of the car. First started with the body mount yesterday. Next it didn’t curve enough to go around the pan mount. I had to drill out the welds and bend the outer piece to fit.

next was to fill in hole made from the body mount.

Now to fit the patch.

It took longer to get the piece to fit, so I ran out of time to finish welding in the piece. Will have to wait another day.

Strike is over!

2011-08-29T20:43:00.001-04:00

Now that I am not working 12 hour days, I got some time to work on the bug. The last piece I need t o fix on the drivers side is the rear body mount. Bought the metal awhile ago, and cut out the piece today.

The body mounts in the rear differ from the pan and the body. So I have to modify the replacement part to accommodate the difference.

Tomorrow hopefully with get part fit and welded in.

Update

2011-08-18T17:34:00.002-04:00

Working stupid hours until the union and Verizon get a contract, working 12 hour days 6 days a week, probably wont get any work done on the bug. Tho all this money i am making will make a nice dent in the parts list.

Only “Kewl” day of the week

2011-07-17T17:33:00.001-04:00

This weeks highs are going to be near 100. Todays high on 89…what a cool front. So I took the opportunity to work on the bug today. In my last post I talked about replacing the entire luggage tray in the “trunk” up front. Come to find out no one makes a replacement panel for a 61, only 66 on, and the brackets and fuse panel are in different locations. If I am going to have to modify it to fit I might as well fix the one I have, so today was step 1 of that process, seal up the wheel well portion.

With the rust out of the way patch number 1 goes in

Next came the inside portion. Not the easiest piece to make.

Ground down some of the weld and sprayed some paint over it to keep the rust from coming back.

The paint in the trunk is a semi-gloss rustoleum, it looks horrid in the pictures, I have since sprayed over with my self etching primer which is flat.

I ordered a patch for the rear and some miscellaneous parts from my source in Canada, hopefully will be here by the end of the week, but more likely early the following week.

Full days work 2…sort of

2011-07-10T16:53:00.001-04:00

Todays work was to finish the inside part of the channel, and tackle either the front wheel well or the rear wheel well.

This patch looks a little “hack” but it will all be hidden.

The front wheel well was my next project. I started cutting and it didn’t seem to stop. At some point welding patches is a losing battle and it become easier to replace the entire panel. I think this is one of them.

To get to the rust I had to grind off all the welds holding in the hood release.

So I stopped working up front and moved to the back. Not much more success back there. I started by trying to remove the plate that holds the rear body mount (that was hacked already).

The metal behind the plate is also bad, I need to do some research to figure out if there is a panel I can buy that will fix this part and the rear bumper mount (which is toast also).

If I knew then what I know now, this car should have been cut up and sold as parts, this thing is a disaster.

Full days work 1

2011-07-09T21:07:00.001-04:00

This weekend I am wife and babyless. This means I get to work all day on the bug. Today was day 1 and was pretty successful. Started by finishing the b pillar.

Next is fill in the antenna hole.

This is actually patch panel # 2, the first one I dropped down the a-pillar and I cant find it, I think its in the heater channel. I guess I will need a big radio so I cant hear that rattling in there. In my attempts to locate it I had to remove the hood.

The last item I worked on was patching up the nasty rust under the rear quarter window.

As I was cleaning up I found my self-etching primer and wanted to see it on the car. Well that lead to covering all of the driver side of the car.

It looks streaky, but that was only one coat. Will probably leave it primered for now and have it stripped later when it gets painted.

Long block vs machine shop options

2011-07-02T19:33:00.005-04:00

Midamerica motor
1914 reman 69x94 110 041 $1899 (inc core)

1776 streetwave 69x90.5 110 041 $1889 (core?)

Importmotors.com
1914 reman 69x94 110 042 $1829 (inc core) +$245 ship

1776 reman 69x90.5 110 042 $1829 (inc core) +$245 ship

Machine shop
wash $     15.00
align bore $     55.00
cut 94mm $     50.00
wash/peen crank $     15.00
eight dowel crank $     20.00
polish crank $     30.00
clean install rods $     25.00
wash flywheel $     20.00
resurface flywheel $     35.00
eight dowel flywheel $     20.00
rebuild head $     75.00
repair exhaust stud (5) $     75.00
Balance engine $   100.00
Shipping (round trip) $   240.00
Machine shop Total   $   740.00

Rebuild parts
Glad nut $   26.95
cylinder/piston 94mm $ 169.95
gasket kit $   12.95
main bearings $   49.95
cam bearings $   14.95
rear main $    3.95
rod bearings $   14.95
pushrod tube seal $    4.00
flywheel $   69.95
pushrod tube $   18.00
oil screen $    3.75 042
heads (2) $ 579.98
Part Total $ 969.33

Rebuild total: $ 1709.33

Parts needed for both
j-tubes $   19.95
exhaust $   73.95
points $    3.95
plugs $   11.80
plug wires $   12.95
cap $    7.95
rotor $    7.50
clutch/pressure plate $   79.95
pulley $   26.95
Total $ 244.95

Project totals
Assemble Rebuild - $1954.28
MAM rebuild - $2143.95 + frieght
Import rebuild - $2318.95

vin/title info

2011-07-01T22:32:00.002-04:00

When I bought the bug the MD title only showed 4 of the 7 numbers in the VIN. So I decided that I would look into correcting it. Well VA said if they titled what was on the MD title I would need a letter from MD stating they had it wrong. Well MD can go back to 1990 with the 4 digit VIN when it was transferred from VA. My contact with VA DMV stated that they dont show any record on the title # MD gave me and if i want it changed fill out all these forms and mail them $125...No thanks. I think i will spend that $125 on parts.

MD title from 2008 - 627 062711 (22383601?)
VA title from 1990 - 43566032

MD shows the car was title twice in MD, so that means 3 people owned it b/c previous owner never titled it. I wonder if the car was originally titled as 4 digits overseas before making it way back to the states and its been wrong since day one. The world may never know.

Clutch info

2011-06-27T16:43:00.001-04:00

Took some pictures of the clutch to try and pin-point what it is.

200mm

Side notes on motor.

2011-06-17T17:48:00.005-04:00

Head
113.101.375A - 71-73 dual port with 35.5mm intakes and 32mm exhausts with the combustion chamber ledge.

Aftermarket
040 - 40mm intake X 35.5mm exhaust
041 - 39mm intake X 32mm exhaust brazil
042 - 40mm Intake x 35.5mm Exhaust are made by MOFOCO
044 - CB performance - best around

Cam C-35 - Scat cam
LIFT AT CAM LOBE: .381"
LIFT WITH 1.10:1 ARM: .419"
LIFT WITH 1.25:1 ARM: .476"
ADVERTISED DURATION: 285
DURATION AT .050": 246
SIMILAR CAM GRINDS: ENGLE W-110
86.93 piston
87mm - 1641cc

Kadron Solex H40/44 EIS
rebuilding instructions
Carb Instructions.doc

Change of pace

2011-06-14T21:39:00.001-04:00

Took on disassembly of the engine today. 5 hours later I had most of it apart.

Valve train was in good shape. Now the cylinders on this side was another story. Looks like some water made it in and rusted up the head and piston.

The other side was in quite better shape.

Here are some pics of the splitting of the case.

Here are all the pieces laid out on the work bench. Only thing still assembled is the crank and connecting rods.

Birthday Gift from the wife

2011-05-17T21:36:00.000-04:00

YOM plates for the bug.

Day 84

2011-05-09T21:07:00.001-04:00

My early birthday present…the missing brake parts.

Finished up the drivers A pillar today.

First panel of the year

2011-04-18T18:48:00.001-04:00

First nice day I had off and wasn’t busy. Welded up the panel I got ready back in Nov of last year.

Front panel.

Finished the rear panel, I kinda warped one section. will have to get the stud welder out to correct it.

Hopefully I can get all the structural parts welded up over the summer and get the motor running this fall.

Parts run!!!

2011-03-02T19:00:00.001-05:00

Still been pretty cold here so no real work has been completed. I ordered a slew of parts. It all started looking for new brake lines, and all said and done I forgot to order them…DAMN IT! Guess I have to buy more parts to make the shipping worth it.

All new door seals and trim, window seals, shocks, brake drums, and a bunch of odds and ends to get the bug buttoned up. These should hold me over until I get to the engine.

Newest Bug Enthusiast

2011-02-16T19:02:00.000-05:00

Welcome to my new daughter

Samantha Claire

She is why I haven’t had time to work on the bug

X-Mas Gift

2011-01-22T21:04:00.001-05:00

My wonderful wife ordered a Birth Certificate from the VW museum in Germany.

It looks like the car was purchased by a soldier while in France and shipped to the US after their duty based on being a US spec car. Ignore the us-eq list, VW just kept adding the that package group over the years. My car doesn’t have the upgraded brakes, seat belts, or a 12 volt system. Hopefully it will warm up sooner rather then later so work can continue.

Damn cold weather

2010-12-10T22:16:00.000-05:00

The weather here in NOVA has taken a bad turn and highs have been in the 30's and 40's. To cold for me to work. I came close to my year end goal of having all purchased metal welded on (short by one panel). Hopefully it wont continue to be this cold and I can start back up in the new year. I also added a new side bar that lists out links to parts I still need to buy, easier for me to keep track of them. Of my few followers have a wonderful holiday season and check back next year for more updates.

901 info & possible exhaust system

2010-11-09T21:56:00.001-05:00

Year and gear ratios.

Saw this for sale, and thought it would sound good. Saving it for a rainy day when exhaust time comes.

Test Fit

2010-11-09T18:26:00.001-05:00

The front patch is ready.

Welded up the rear patch

2010-11-08T17:06:00.001-05:00

Outside

Door Jam

Inside

I still need to fill in the welds on the outside, ran out of shielding gas, so it will have to wait until next week.

Surgical Precision

2010-11-07T19:21:00.001-05:00

The new patch panels have arrive, spent the day fitting the rear patch.

Why welding thin metal sucks!

2010-11-02T18:29:00.001-04:00

This is a couple days mashed into one post. I started by working on the outside rear section and nothing would line up and every time I would place a weld the sheet metal was so thin it would blow threw.

It doesn’t look bad in the photos, but there are gaps between the old metal and new metal. A few pin holes I tried to fill became nickel size holes, and in my frustration I cut out the section and tried to make a new patch. Well since some of the old pin holes were filled with welding rod the back of the metal wasn’t flat anymore and the patch wouldn’t lay against the metal. So I ordered a complete patch for that section, should be here in a week.

A couple days later I got back out to work again. This time working on the inside section. I cheated big time and just over laid the patch to the old metal.

I had to stop there because the next piece ties into the outside piece and I need to know how far the new patch panel wraps around. I moved on to the fan shroud and filled some pin holes and cleaned off some of the generator/fan cover plate.

Patch panels

2010-10-19T21:41:00.001-04:00

Put the drivers door latch back in, and hung the door on the car. For some reason the outside handle when tightened down doesn’t work.

This hole in the bottom of the door…

was plugged with this…a glob of rubber.

The door is in bad shape, I am going to just buy a another door next year at the bug-out.

The reason I hung the door was to work on making the drivers heater channel permanent. Worked on closing in the back wheel well section.

In the previous picture you can see the piece I cheated as a backer for the next picture.

Those pin holes you see will be covered with seam sealer, I cant get the welder turned to reach it or get my head around to see it.

This turned out really well. Can’t even see where the hole use to be.

Fit and trim part 2

2010-10-17T19:04:00.001-04:00

Cleaned up the front section, scrapped off all the old under coating, and sanded down the paint on the front quarter.

Found a small bit of damaged covered by bondo.

Found some more rust holes in the fender well.

Tried the tape off lines instead of the marker technique. The cut lines are quite a bit straighter this way.

With the tape pulled, and heater channel back in.

Couple extra shots.

Fit and trim

2010-10-13T20:28:00.001-04:00

No not me…Cleaned up the ragged edges on the back end of the heater channel.

Rust holds it all together

2010-10-12T19:40:00.001-04:00

Removed the driver side heater channel.

After some drilling and cutting.

Found this little home.

Some test fitting. Still needs some work.

Rolling again

2010-10-04T20:43:00.001-04:00

Finished the front suspension.

Rolled the bug out into the driveway to move it over in the garage. Here are a few shots of the lowered suspension. The rear bottomed out as soon as I lowered the jack.

In the process of trying to find some lost parts I threw the ragtop frame on the roof.

First time the car has had solid floors in at least 20 years.

In my last big purchase I bought new front shocks. I bought the lowered version and my car isn’t lowered enough for those to work, so I put the originals back in for now. For the rears I will either re-index the torsion bars or look at notching the rear spring plate. Probably end up notching them.

The BFH

2010-10-03T19:12:00.001-04:00

Started with getting the neighbors to help me move the body back into the garage.

and the napoleon hat lines up pretty well.

The new hydraulic press arrived. Lets just say it didn’t live up to my expectations.

After pressing in the ball joints.

I guess I needed more then 6 tons of pressure. I am going to re-enforce it with some thicker plates before I use it again.

The upper BJ’s came out with out much hassle. Now the lowers were a disaster. The trailing arm doesn’t have enough extra metal on the end for the press to catch. So I proceeded with the destruction method. A cold chisel, BFH, and 2 hours later.

Now the new BJ’s. I did forget to line up the marks on one and figure out how to remove it with out ruining it.

Locked them down to the beam and added the spindles.

and here are the eccentric spacers for camber adjustment

Sealed up the axle tubes by adding the brake backing plates.

I went down to Pepboys to have then turn the drums, well the fronts they could do, but because the rears are splined they couldn’t turn those.

When I removed the front driver fender (which was hit at some point) I noticed that the driver side of the spare tire well is bent. I am going to just leave it for now, it only seems to effect the hood. Hopefully I can get the headlight to align.

Damn rain

2010-09-29T18:43:00.001-04:00

So the body will sit in the driveway for another week before I can put it back on the pan. In the mean time I cleaned up each of the brake backing plates.

I painted them, I guess I didn’t take a picture of it. Also I needed to fill the trans with fluid. I am lazy and didn’t want to hold and squeeze the bottle, takes a long time to push 2.75 quarts of gear oil thru a 1/4 in tube. So here is my solution.

Then to create the pressure, I punctured a hole in the bottom, and used a spring clamp. Once the pressure is equalized, I would pull the screw driver out expand the bottle, then re-clamped. Took some time but worked like a champ.

(Knock on wood) The trans isn’t leaking.

#@$%^$%*^%!

2010-09-28T21:05:00.001-04:00

Installed the transmission 3 times today. First I find this.

Had to flip the rear mount. Then I noticed after I fixed it…

I forgot the seal for the shift linkage.

Once I fixed that I completed the the rear, minus the brakes.

I don’t think each side is level but will find out once the car is under full weight.

Cleaned up a few threads, I know I am cheap, i could just buy new bolts.

Here are a few extra pics of the rest of the day.

Mission Accomplished

2010-09-22T20:58:00.001-04:00

Today’s agenda was to weld in the pan halves.

Fitment

Welds

A shot with all the tools

Then I painted over the welds (hope they stick)

Finished the afternoon off by grinding down/off the rust and gunk of the trans frame horn, then painted it up.

The other day my wife was nesting and decided to move the bookcase from upstairs to downstairs. This displaced two older bookcases we had in that spot. So I took them as parts shelves for now.

Yes they are in a hallway, there isn’t any room in the garage for them right now. Maybe once the bug is moving under its own power I will have room.

Then tonight with the help of 3 neighbors we flipped the pan over and I sealed the floor pans with 3M body sealer.

I just need to spray the bottom of the floor with undercoating and I can start to assemble the rear end and get the bug back on its wheels.

No More Flintstones

2010-09-19T19:49:00.001-04:00

Cleaned up the last of the old floor pan.

The new pans have the rear support included, and I am not replacing that so I needed to remove that section. Not as easy as it sounds. The keep metal is lighter gauge then the metal I was removing so the air hammers would tear it up.

Second one wasn’t any better

First trial fit after removing the rear support

Welded up some patches to clean up the disaster of the removal.

Both pans have been fixed, now for the trial fitment.

Before

After

They are not welded in yet, ran out of shielding gas, so Tuesday I get to trek down to Warrenton.

Continued Progress

2010-09-15T21:32:00.001-04:00

Flipped the pan over, and now on to cleaning the top side. First started by removing what’s left of the factory sound deadening.

Installed the steering box.

(the paint is shiny because I had to touch-up a few spots I scratched)

With no notes on which bolts go where, I bolted up the new trans bushings.

Ground down part of the rear body mount

And for the heck of it I pull the crusty old starter off the trans.

The new ball joints arrive, and I have tried every method I can think of or find online and nothing works. I guess its time to give up and pay a shop to press the old ones out and the new ones in.

Pleasantly surprised

2010-09-12T21:55:00.003-04:00

Started by cutting off what was left of the passenger side floor pan, still need to remove the welded seam from the tunnel.

Then scrapped off the old undercoating on the rear frame section

I was going to grind off just the sections that I couldn’t get everything with the screw driver/scraper I used, but it lead to the entire underside of the frame.

(ignore the trans mount)

Once I finished everything I sprayed it with this stuff

I was afraid it would be a real chunky coating, but it goes on nicely.

(i finished the first can, so the start of the second can burped and you can see the snot on the lower side, kinda ticked me off)

Lastly I needed to remove the old trans mount so I could install the new urethane bushings. It was pretty nasty so I cleaned up the main bracket.

(now ignore the frame)

The new parts should arrive this week, hopefully Tuesday or Wednesday I can flip the pan over do the same to the top side then start to assemble it back together.

Day 6 of 6: Back to the grind

2010-09-08T21:08:00.001-04:00

With no parts on hand I spent more time cleaning up the parts I am reusing. First I installed the beam.

Next up was the steering box.

Lastly is the other spindle.

Also installed the beam spacers.

The new parts will be here starting tomorrow and next week. Once they arrive the progress can continue.

Day 5 of 6: Paint

2010-09-07T21:01:00.001-04:00

Today’s time was cut short with a trip to Woodbridge to pick up a tap and die set with a 12x1.5 tap. 12 dollars and 2 hours later I was back home. The tool is a cheap “made in China” set. The tap worked just fine, but I broke the handle part. Had to finish the job with my Kobalt brand handle.

To finish the front end or install the trans I need more parts. Last night I ordered new ball joints, steering links, seals, trans mounts, shocks, and axle boots.

I welded on the brake line tabs, and paint the front end.

My first plan was to install the trans and when the new mounts arrive swap them out, this was so I could move the body out of the driveway. Well the nose cone and the main case are to close together to remove one of the nuts on the mount, so I pulled the nose cone and removed the mount.

The first picture is the shift linkage, which is very different then any other shift linkage I have ever seen. The second shot is the mount off the trans.

Since I couldn’t do any more work, I started cleaning up parts and paint them. Its amazing what a little grinding off and paint can do to make a part look new. Who needs a fancy spray booth when you have a garage door, a coat hanger, and a piece of cardboard.

(The first picture is the steering arm, and the second picture are bolts pressed thru cardboard)

Here are shots of the beam.

The last item I cleaned up was one of the spindles. I kept messing up the paint by setting it down, so I stuck it in the vise to let it dry over night.

After my post yesterday I went down to the garage to “quickly” press out each of the ball joints with my ball joint press. Unfortunately the trailing arms don’t have enough metal around the ball joint to allow the cup to rest on it. Plan two was to heat up the trailing arm with a small propane torch and then using my BFH bang out the ball joint. After 30-40 minutes of banging, the wife came down to complain of the noise 4 stories away, I had one ball joint removed.

Day 4 of 6: Poorly made Brazilian junk

2010-09-05T16:10:00.002-04:00

I went on the cheap side when I ordered the replacement metal, and bought Brazilian part instead of German parts. The fitment was not what I would call stellar. Spent most of the time bending and massaging the parts to fit better.

This is the part that gave me the most grief. Check the gaps between the parts.

The neighbors probably loved all the banging going on today, but afterwards it lined up fairly well. Hopefully it fits under the body correctly.

Tried a stone grinding wheel over my flapper wheel, and it cleans things up quick, but throws quite a bit more sparks. Here are the cleaned up welds with the stone.

I started a list to try and fell like I was making progress, and today was the first day I was able to remove it from the list.

Day 3 of 6: Extra Work

2010-09-05T00:11:00.001-04:00

I decided to install the beam before I welded on the bottom plate to insure that the front section was not bent during the welding of the holes. In the process I stripped two of the bolts hole, royally ticked me off. Now I need to find a 12x1.5 mm tap to re-cut the threads in the frame head (hopefully). At the same time decided to tear apart the beam and clean it up (really just to make it lighter).

Will paint it up in a few days hopefully. I also placed a large order with my fav VW shop. New steering links, trailing arm seals, shocks, and ball joints. All of the tie rods and ball joints released with a small blow of the hammer except one, which took a punch, hand held sledge and a bench vise before it would release.

Now back to the original plan to install the lower frame head plate. I turned up the voltage and wire speed and made some pretty good looking welds (IMHO).

I borrowed another neighbor and we flipped the pan right side up, so tomorrow before the tech game I hope to finish up the bottom plate, and maybe clean up what’s left of the driver side floor pan.

Day 2 of 6: Holes filled

2010-09-02T20:33:00.001-04:00

The plan today was to fill the holes in the front of the frame head. Made a trip to the store to get a refill of shielding gas, I only have a small bottle, and I guess I have the flow rate set to high, because I have already used half the bottle. I backed down the flow and we will see how that goes.

Before Pictures

After pictures

Not pretty but they will be inside the tunnel, so no one will see them. I still need to grind down the outside welds.

I bought some of the East.woods internal frame paint, which has a nifty tube to spray inside the tunnel. At first it wouldn’t push the paint down the tube, once it finally made it thru the tube it worked great.

I just need a longer tube. Hopefully once the pan is flipped over I can reach thru the shifter and the linkage coupler hole to finish coating the tunnel.

Sprayed the inside of the frame head, and now the plan for day 3 is to weld on the frame head bottom plate.

Day 1 of 6: Amazing

2010-09-01T18:55:00.001-04:00

I have 6 of the next 8 days off from work so I have big plans to get the chassis finished. I needed to finish a couple welds on the body before I shipped it to the driveway. I had a House moment, and found if I speed up the wire speed with the higher voltage you get some really good looking welds.

With the help of my neighbor I moved the body off the jack stands and out to the drive way.

Here are shots of the what’s left of the chassis in the garage.

I found tons of metal bits and shavings in the frame head, it was to heavy to flip over and I’m to lazy to dig out my shop vac, so I pulled out all the shavings and bits with my magnet on a stick.

(kinda creepy looking)

Here are a few pics with a part number and serial off the trans.

Edit: Using this site, It looks like this trans is from a 1970-on Karman Ghia with a 3.875 R&P mated to a 1600.

2 day update

2010-08-26T20:15:00.001-04:00

Started repairs on the front chassis mount. Decided to use 16 gauge metal instead of 20 gauge, and man what a difference that makes. It is so much easier to weld up. A little thicker then what's on the car.

Welded in the outside piece first. I cheated some and slide the new piece under the old piece. I miss calculated this piece and forgot there was a bend in the bottom plate, so it it doesn’t mimic the old piece, but it will work.

Piece 2 was the bottom plate.

Piece 3 is the inside part. Also cheated and over lapped the upper side on the old metal. Quite a bit easier to weld, and no burn thru. Will probably continue with overlap on further patches.

Not the prettiest welds ever, but I have realized that my welding skills wont win any awards, so make then strong and clean them up. Most of the welds here will be covered in seam sealer.

Short Update

2010-08-21T15:42:00.001-04:00

Did a little finish welding on the body.

Before:

After:

Hottest summer on record

2010-08-16T00:49:00.001-04:00

This has been the hottest summer on record in the DC area. I get about 2 hours of work in before I want to die. So the follow pics are a couple days worth of work, what little it is.

The plate is off the frame head, I tried to grind down the left over pieces, but can only get the grinder in so far. It lines up pretty good, so hopefully it works.

I scrapped all the under coating off with a flathead screw driver, but it left a sticky coating. I started grinding it off, but the disk gummed up to fast. Plan two was wd-40, and amazingly it worked like a charm. I doubt the tunnel looked this good from the factory.

Still need some cleaning on the trans mounts, but getting close.

ugh

2010-07-24T13:23:00.001-04:00

This is actually two days of work, it has been so hot and humid here I just have to think about sweating and I sweat.

Anyone that has been to my garage knows that I have alot of tools. And thanks to the genius VW engineers I now own a 17mm hex head socket, really? So the transaxle is out and cleaned, and the chassis is now flipped over.

I wish I had more room so I could put the body some place else. Debating putting it in the driveway for a few “days.” (Shhhh) Dont tell my wife.

I am getting tired of this high 90’s with 80% humidity days.

Have to be smarter than what you are working with!

2010-07-14T21:17:00.001-04:00

Drilled out all the spot welds in the frame head bottom plate. Working to remove the trans to flip the pan over to get to the welds on the front of the frame head. Got everything all set to pull the trans and remembered that the driver e-brake cable was still attached. Tried the impact wrench, the torquemeister tool, a propane torch and the dumb axle nut wouldn’t move. So I busted out the drill and drilled out the SOB.

Its off now, but now I have to order a new axle nut before I can drive it. Here are the pics of the frame head work.